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| Big Trip 2009 |
The Travel Journal for Emily and Jeff.
We got up early again this morning, but stuck around camp and made some delicious french toast for breakfast. Then we started out northwards to see the other side of the park, even though we had heard rumors that OBAMA was going to be in yellowstone, in the area we had seen the previous two days. Our first stop was at artist paint pots, which is a spot filled with muddy geysers and hot springs, which sounds gross, and it kind of is. It’s also fascinating and mesmerizing.
We then went to norris geyser basin to see some more geysers. Many were inactive but we did catch a minor eruption of steamboat geyser which is very cool. Jeff’s camera lense cap fell off the boardwalk (which you are urged not to stray from, as you could fall through the crust of the earth into boiling lava) and immediately like 15 people sprang to our assistance and grabbed sticks to retrieve it. Very helpful.
We then drove to mammoth hot springs, where i started getting a little exhausted. Mammoth is the second most visited area in the park and by this time it was close to noon, and it seemed that most of the earth’s population had descended onto the area. We walked around for a little bit but i think jeff could tell i was a little over it, and so was he. We drove on a little ways, and i proceeded to have a minor freak-out, mostly about being tired of camping and being around too many people. So jeff suggested we leave yellowstone a day early, as we had pretty much seen all the major sights in the park in the first two days. We agreed to camp one more night and then head off towards Zion NP tomorrow.
It was a good call, because the freezing cold weather and the HAIL that fell on us as we got back to our campsite and tried to cook dinner made us very glad that this would be our last night camping. But we made the best of it, jeff made a fire and we had some delicious dougheys and went to bed ridiculously early.
Em.
Having heard that yellowstone gets busy around the middle of the day and sights tend to be much less crowded during early morning and late evening, we got up early in an attempt to have the park to ourselves for at least a little while. This was a good plan in theory, but didn’t account for it being extremely cold at 6am, making us not excited to get out of the car to see these sights. But we drove around the southern loop for a while and made it to the grand canyon of the yellowstone, this deep, narrow canyon with two huge and beautiful waterfalls at its mouth. We took lots of pictures, and our walks out to the viewpoints were in fact not crowded at all, though, as we expected, they got busier and busier as the morning went on.
We visited the canyon’s visitor center, which i have to say is the most fancy, informative and interactive visitor center i’ve ever seen.
As the day went on we drove back around the south end of the park, along yellowstone lake, seeing bison here and there. We stopped at a place called ‘mud volcano area’ which smelled terrible but had some amazing geothermal features. Along the short trail around the area we watched a bison advance on a visitor who had ignored the multitude of signs that say ‘do not approach bison’. The bison evidently was bluffing, but the person backed off to be sure. People are stupid.
In the afternoon we made our way back to the old faithful area, to take showers and do some laundry before our dinner reservation at the old faithful inn. Showers were again wonderfully refreshing.
The old faithful inn is definitely my favorite lodge we’ve seen so far on this trip. It is amazing. I can’t really even describe it, it’s crazy. Just go visit. The food was good, we ate bison. I tried not to picture them wandering around with their crazy beards and shaggy coats. It was pretty tasty.
In the evening we caught old faithful’s eruption again, and then walked out to daisy geyser which was scheduled to erupt ‘within 30 minutes of 7:30’ according to the visitor center. We got there at about 7:20, and there were two other people waiting (which was quite nice compared to the hundreds that watched old faithful with us). The four of us waited until 8:05 and then jeff and i got up and left, but just as we were walking away we saw it start, and it was really cool. Not as tall as old faithful but very interesting, it shoots out at an angle. Our bitterness and frustration instantly turned to relief.
Em.
As we sat in our tent with the gentle downpour of rain trickling all over our shelter, we contemplated what the course of action should be for packing up the tent and everything inside of it. Just then we caught a break in the rain and broke down our site as quick as we could. We took one last look out towards Lake McDonald and Glacier National Park and headed Southeast. The rain stayed with us for a great deal of the journey. We stopped at the scenic Missoula Cracker Barrel for an old fashioned country breakfast and hit the road again. The rain let up as we stopped for supplies in the “city” of Butte. Butte puts the state of Montana in perspective. It’s one of the biggest cities in the state and it barely fits the size of a town. No loss getting out of there quick. Soon enough we were entering Yellowstone National Park. We found our site and set up what we could. Luckily it was very dry and wet stuff dried almost instantly. After establishing our new home for the next few days, we still had daylight to kill. We headed down the road towards Old Faithful to see what all the comotion was about. Low and behold walking down the middle of the road was an enormous Bison. This guy didn’t give a crap about who was in front of him or the half mile line of cars beside him. We pulled over and watched this giant beast walk right past our car. What a badass.
Driving to Old Faithful the geothermic activity was readily apparent. Steam pouring out of every mound. Finally we got to the Old Faithful area and took a stroll around looking at the other features. Geysers and steam vents and hot springs; all so fascinating, unusual and altogether captivating. Soon enough it was time for the big show. We grabbed a seat on the side and just after the sun set for the day, Old Faithful erupted in a stream of super hot ground water and flowing steam. Yes it is hyped. Yes its pretty mainstream. But it really is something to behold and to wonder. It was a great introduction to the park and we reflected on the ride home about the beauty we had seen and what was sure to come.
--jeff
Day 8
Sometime during the night it rained, but when we woke up the sky didn’t look too bad. But it was on and off raining by the time we got over to the river rafting headquarters. No worries, we’d be getting wet anyway, right?
Wearing our sexy ‘splash jackets’ and booties issued by the rafting company, we put in at Moccasin creek with 8 other people and nick, our friendly/cocky guide. I shouldn’t say that, it sounds mean. He was a very experienced guide and kept us all safe. He just wanted to tell us story after story that proved that point. But the trip was great, lots of fun, lots of getting soaked both by rapids and by rain. Fun times.
Afterwards we went to the glacier camp ground to take showers, which we needed REALLY bad. Then i spent the afternoon looking for a glacier sweatshirt which was partly because it’s just about the coolest place ever and partly because somehow i packed no hooded sweatshirts, and was being rained on all day.
We had a delicious dinner at the Lake MacDonald Lodge, which is beautifully though eerily decorated with hunting trophies of all the protected animals in the park, apparently from mr. MacDonald’s collection from before it became a national park. Kinda weird anyway though, right? jeff almost ordered the buffalo burger and i almost ordered the wild game fettuccini alfredo (duck, venison and some other adorable animal i can’t remember) but we both chickened out and got more mainstream meals, which were delicious.
In the evening, our last evening in glacier, the rain let up and we walked the trail of the cedars, which is a beautiful walk through a sort of rainforesty area. This walk is definitely built for non-hikers, it’s handicap-accessible, it’s less than a mile around and there’s a bathroom on the way. But it was extremely beautiful, and i think it’s really cool that they want everyone to be able to enjoy the park from OUTSIDE their cars, even for just a short walk. It was a great end to a great stay in glacier.
-em.
Well we took the going-to-the-sun road again today, but this time we drove it ourselves in order to get to the other side of the park to access a super-cool and less crowded area called many glacier. Jeff drove over in the morning, and we saw another black bear crossing the road in front of us. Too cool.
The sun road is amazing and beautiful and a real monument to the WPA who built it so many years ago. It is also freaking scary. A one-foot high rock wall separates your car from a several thousand foot plunge. If you’re lucky. Because sometimes it’s just open. AND it’s ridiculously narrow, and on top of that some people who are clearly less acrophobic than i decide to bike it, and there are no bike lanes. Thank goodness jeff was driving on the way east, the much scarier way, and my only job was to quietly freak out. Which i did diligently.
But we made it just fine. Obviously. Many glacier is a cool spot. We visited the many glacier hotel, which is breathtaking, and from there took two boat tours across two gorgeous glacial lakes and proceeded to hikefour difficult miles up to grinnell glacier.
I thought i had ‘seen’ glaciers before. I hadn’t. Though we could not go out onto the glacier because of the danger of falling through, we got to see it up close in its entirety and it was phenomenal. GO. GO NOW. They estimate that all the glaciers in the park will be gone by 2030. Tragic.
The hike back was easier in some ways, but we were pretty exhausted from the ascent and jeff’s knees had stopped playing nice with him. We were pretty ragged by the time we got back to the boat dock. But our spirits were lifted a bit by the moose we saw coming out of the water at josephine lake.
The way back went smoothly, i even drove back over the sun road, white-knuckling it all the way even though it’s the easier way by far. some tacos, beer and foot-soaking did wonders once we finally got back to camp.
-em.
Day 5
Here we are. We are IN glacier. I don’t know what to do i’m so excited.
We got up this morning, had delicious huckleberry pie and more huckleberry pancakes, said sad goodbyes to janet and jack and levi and his family, and were on our way about 8:30. The drive was beautiful, forests and lakes and rivers galore.
We stopped for lunch and groceries in kalispell, mt. We bought groceries at Rosauers, which jack had mandated that we do several times during our stay, and he was very right, it was a good grocery store. I don’t know what kind of shady business going on at the other super markets in and around that town caused jack to be so adament that we go to this one, and i don’t want to know.
We got to glacier around 3:30. It is amazing here. Our campsite is right by MacDonald Lake, we can literally see it from our tent, and we went down and put our feet in this afternoon. Everything is so green here. It’s glorious.
Em.
p.s. we had to slow for a deer casually crossing the road on our way to our campground. Just par for the course around here i guess. This place is incredible.
Day 4
If you’re ever going anywhere ever, see if you can stay with my uncle jack and aunt janet. They deserve an award for best hosts of all time. We started our day off with huckleberry pancakes. Here’s the the thing about people in idaho: they’re crazy about huckleberries. Now don’t get me wrong, i find these berries to be quite delicious myself, but there was a lot of conversation about the time and effort spent obtaining and maintaining levels of them (measured in GALLONS). But the point is, the pancakes were great.
We left shortly after for the lake with the ‘party barge’ janet and jack borrowed from friends. My cousin steve, whom i had not seen in like 15 years, joined us and was very excited to be a part of our day out on the water.
My cousin Levi and his wife Rainey and two adorable daughters Skye and Shea met us at the lake. The whole day was beautiful, although janet was convinced that it was ruined because it wasn’t sunny. The best/most hilarious part of our boating excursion was towards the beginning when jack hit a series of waves at break-neck speed, splashing most of the water in the lake into the front of the boat and drenching jeff, steve, levi and i. Good times. Also very cold times.
The boat adventure also included a delicious barbecued lunch, a tour of all the places steve has jumped off and hurt himself, a view of some beautiful lake-front houses, and some great conversation.
After we got back Levi and his crew came to janet and jack’s for more food, hot-tubbing, drinking, and continued discussion of huckleberries, which culminated in an agreement that janet would make a huckleberry pie (which she had never done before, a major sacrifice since it calls for so many of their precious berries), though by the time the pie was finished the girls weretoo tired and it was agreed that they would come back in the morning for more huckleberry breakfast items and pie. Too funny.
Day 3
If anyone ever speaks poorly of the continental breakfast at the Super 8 Motel in Baker City, Oregon; do not believe them. It is an average to poor continental breakfast. Not long after breakfast we hit the road, despite the pleasant downpour. There really is a lot of farm land in this area and we must have seen most of it; a billion acres of corn and some millions of cows. Lots of cows. But we did see a couple of Elk off the highway during our drive which was a welcome sight. Those things are huge! We got to Walla Walla about midday and headed to the “Fort” Walla Walla Museum. The use of the word fort must have a different meaning this far north. Mind you, they did have a great deal of exhibits about the agricultural history of the area, if you are into old tractors and threshers. And if you know me, I’m all about replica antique steam engines. Booya. Their pioneer village also offered a glimpse into the olden days of Walla Walls. But, no fort. No guarded walls with canons and muskets. No actors in replica uniforms. Besides the name of the place, there wasn’t any reference at all to any fort that ever was there. I’m not bashing it, just truthifying it.
Following that excursion we took to downtown Walla Walla, which has a main drag with a really nice area of shops and restaurants. What attracted us to Walla Walla was the wineries. Down the main street, there must have been a dozen tasting rooms for local vineyards and wineries. We went to a couple of tasting rooms before lunch and enjoyed some tasty wines. One wine vendor gave us a great deal of insight to the area and recommended a great restaurant for us, T. Maccarroones(sp?). Awesome little italian restaurant (with a really nice bathroom, BTW). After hitting another wine tasting we were off bound for Coeur D’Alene. I can only vouch for part of this drive after tasting all of that wine. Didn’t take long before we got through Spokane and arrived in Coeur D’Alene where we were warmly greeted by our hosts Jack and Janet. They promptly offered us a glass of wine and I knew we would be getting along just fine. With a bit of afternoon left, we went down to the lake and walked along the boardwalk. Lake Coeur D’Alene is a massive and beautiful lake. We stopped at a boat that was on “open house” and took a look inside. I would hardly call it roughing it with the plush carpet and marble countertops. Unfortunately, it was just out of our price range at $280,000.
We returned to Jack and Janet’s and had a delicious dinner of Feta tacos(recipe officially stolen), plenty more wine and good conversation. We are looking forward to tommorrow and spending some time on the lake. We are already having a great time so far and this has been the “boring” part of the trip. Bring on the good stuff!
--jeff